I awoke on the first proper day in Germany. It was bright and sunny, and the city looked inviting out the window. Strangely I felt apprehension*. I had some coffee, cereal and fruit and started to plan the day.
I had half an idea to explore the centre on the first day, but it turns out that quite a lot of attractions in the city were closed on Monday! Oh well. I had a back up plan - suggested by the Lonely Planet guide to Munich, Bavaria and the Black Forest which was a Stäffele walking tour. Much of Stuttgart sits in a massive valley. In the Southern part of the city, are a network of stair cases built by vinters to quickly access the vineyards on the valley slopes - back when the city was more known for it's winemaking.
So I headed out. I had plotted the route into google maps and had that on my phone - so was fairly confident of the way - although it would take about a half hour to get to the start at Marienplatz. It was a clear, bright and chilly day. It was busy and the weather was pleasant - but there was an odd quiet in the air. I knew the elections were coming up so wondered if it had anything to do with that.
I was in good spirits, though. I made my way to Mareinplatz and began to follow the route. Ostensibly, looking back on some of the photos, it wouldn't seem that great. It's just a bunch of stairs.
However it takes you through some very nice neighbourhoods with interesting buildings. Combine that with the history, and some rather fantastic veiws - I can highly recommend giving it a go (on a nice day). I stopped for coffee in a cafe in the square. I think the waitress was slightly amused by my attempts at German, although continued to use German rather than switching to English which was either a good sign that my efforts were appreciated - or maybe she didn't know any English. I finished the tour on the other side of the valley. I did encounter a somewhat mad German man, sat near the bottom of the stairs. He immediately started babbling away at me. Amongst other things I think was trying to tell me the "mountain" was shut on Mondays. He gave up when I asked him (in German) if he spoke English.
On the way back I stopped in a little supermarket for some supplies. I was wary. In Brazil I'd had an embarressing and difficult time trying to use their automated tills because it was all in Portuguese, no pictures, and completely different to ones I was used to in England. It meant that a rather put upon looking Brazilian lady had to come over and basically do it all for me making me feel like an idiot. This time, I thought, I'll wait a little longer for a manned till so as to be able to use by basic German skills, point & gesticulate if needed. At least smile, apologise and try to win them over if all goes wrong. But disaster - the automated till assistant picks me out in the rather busy checkout area and says something to me ending in "kart". Clearly: are you paying by card... come use these machines. "Oh, Ich spreche kein Deutch" I explain (I speak no German). "It's ok. Pay by kart?" he said in a somewhat reassuring way. So a little reluctantly I acquiesced. Nearly immediately I am presented with prompts I don't understand which the chap has to deal with. I can't find where the bags are so he has to show me where those are hidden, in a little out of the way shelf under the packing area. Then to leave is one of those gates where you need to scan your receipt, but I'd accidetally buried mine - so the chap has to do that for me as well. I felt like a baffled, flustered old git. On the plus side it was a somewhat amusing learning experience, and turned out fine in the end. I had my supplies.
In the evening I had a lovely Swabian platter at a restaurant more towards the city centre. It seemed a lot more busy and built up than where I had been on the walking tour - so I looked forward to exploring it more tomorrow!
* I think I often do on the first day or so, adjusting to not having my normal routine & being in a completely foreign place. Language barrier? Culture shock, maybe? Oh well - that's the whole reason I like doing this I suppose :)
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